Jump Around...Finally

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Well hello there!  I know it has been a long while since I last updated everyone on my adventures, but there have been reasons for that.

For starters, the ski season in Colorado has been...thin.  In November, December and January there was very little snowfall.  And any snow that was in the mountains was extremely dangerous (high avalanche danger).  I was skiing, but it was very conservative, and not really much to document.

In about mid-January I started getting sick.  My sickness peaked right around the beginning of February.  I'm still recovering, but am not out of the woods yet.  My spleen is still about 1.75 times its normal size (which is a lot smaller than it was prior).  Hopefully it will be back to normal soon.

Also at the beginning of February, the snow started to finally fall.  February was actually a pretty good snow month.  When the conditions and my health would allow, I got out in the mountains and got after it!  Because of the added consequences of a swollen spleen, I have had to pick my spots and be a little more conservative.

To add to everything, I have not had a camera.  But, the past two days I was able to borrow a camera and put together a little something.  I hope you enjoy it.




In my next update I'll share with you what I have been doing and the visits from some very good friends.

Hopefully, you'll be hearing from me a lot more regularly for the rest of the season!

2010/2011 Ski Season Highlight Video

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I don't know how other folks do it, but I consider October to be when one ski season ends and another ski season starts.  It is usually when new snow starts to fall in the peaks of Colorado, so any skiing done previously is on "last season's snow" and any skiing done from then forward is done on "this season's snow."


In any case, with October quickly approaching I thought this would be a good opportunity to say farewell to the 2010/2011 ski season and debut my highlight video.  It will be in the special features of the new 4FRNT movie, Loyalty, which will be available online on Monday (9/23/11).  You can also check it out at earlyups.com.  


It was the best season I have ever experienced.  Enjoy!



The entirety of this video was filmed in Colorado, Oregon and Washington. After spending most of the season in Colorado I did a large trip to Washington and Oregon to ski some of the PNW's iconic peaks (Rainier, Hood, Adams, Baker, St Helens, Shuksan). It was a wonderful way to top off an amazing ski season.

Thanks to all the people, friends and sponsors that made this season so great. Although the act itself is done individually, skiing is a social endeavor and it wouldn't have been the same without y'all. I've tried to name some of you below. I apologize for anyone that I left out.

-First and foremost thanks to my lovely wife, Kelly, for putting up with me and being so encouraging.
-The University of Colorado Freestyle Ski Team for continuing to push me.
-Mike Bibeau for his tireless editing and putting up with my perfectionism.
-Doug Klepacki, Cory Campbell, Mike Maroney, Geoff Clark, Eric Krall, Palmer Hoyt, Tim Peterson, Patrick Orton, Clayton "Chaz" Roehner, Brian Lindahl, Joel Gratz and Ben Ford for ripping around Colorado with me.
-Josh Smith, Sam Lozier, Greg Hamann, Anita Thompson, Adam Gorski, Ben Krause, the Watkins and the Kurths for being gracious hosts in the PNW.
-Helly Hansen (especially Kelly and Brady) for their great gear and continued support (hellyhansen.com).
-4FRNT for making a fantastic pair of skis that put up with a world of abuse from me (4FRNT.com).
-Deuter for making a pack that took a season long beating but still looks like new (deuter.com).
-Hestra for making gloves I could manage my gear and stay warm in (hestra.com).

I hope you enjoy watching this as much as I enjoyed making it...

Summer 2011

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It has been quite the summer, and with schools back in session, college football on TV and the temps (finally) starting to cool I figured I ought to post something about the summer of 2011.  This will largely be a visual post...LOTS of pictures.  Enjoy!

After I finished up my skiing in the PNW, Kelly came out and joined me for a few days before she ran a marathon in Seattle.

We splurged and spent a night at the Timberline Lodge


Mount Hood in alpenglow


The Liberty Bell in Northern Cascades National Park


NCNP


NCNP


Colonial Peak in NCNP (it must be skied)


NCNP


On our way to Artist Point the road was closed.  I wonder why?


Nooksack Falls


Although still intensely hot (by this winter-lover's standards) this was by far the greenest and wettest summer I've experienced in Colorado.  After getting back from my adventures in the Pacific Northwest at the very end of June, Kelly and I enjoyed getting into the mountains as much as possible.  We still got quite a bit of summer skiing done, too.

Skinner Hut


Mount Massive


Hagerman Pass sunset


Glamour shot


Summer skiing


My Dad made his first visit since I moved here.  We took him on a whirlwind tour that included RMNP, Jones Pass, 6 miles in the Gore Range, backpacking in the Sawatch and a night at the Polar Star Inn (hut).  I think he had a good time!

RMNP


Dad waking up in the alpine


I think Dad was surprised to be climbing on snow


Breakfast hike


Jones Pass


Boulder lake in the Gore Range


After this ~6 mile hike in the Gore, we took Dad on a little backpacking trip...but it was near dark when we set up camp, so no pics until the next morning


Not a bad view for breakfast


New York Peak, Sawatch Range


Start of New York Peak hike


New York Peak hike


New York Peak summit


View towards the Gore Range


Above the New York Lake drainage


As with all summers, a few 14ers were climbed and there was various amounts of monkeying around.

Kelly's first tyrollean


Above Clear Creek


Note to self...loose some weight


Mount Bierstadt summit (the tradition continues!)


Mount Sherman summit ('Merican)


Kelly with her WhichWhich bag


A respectable 14er summit picture

PNW Adventure Summary

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It has taken a while, but the video summary video for my adventures in the Pacific Northwest is finished.  Previously, all of the "previews" provided detailed information and pictures from each individual mountain.  This video is an attempt to condense the feel of the entire trip and all the "previews" into less than 4 minutes.  The editing was done to give it a bit more of a "raw" feel than most of the other videos in the "Joel Bettner and Friends" series.

Along those lines, this will be the last installment of the "Joel Bettner and Friends" series for 2010/2011.  What a way to wrap things up!  I hope you enjoy the video.  The trip will be something I will always remember.  Furthermore, I hope you enjoyed all the videos this season.  The grandeur of the entire season will be something I'll always remember.

PNW Update #6 - Mount Hood, West Crater Rim, Semi-Solo

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I was born in the shadow of Mount Hood.  Although I didn't grow up in Oregon I distinctly remember seeing Mount Hood on various trips as a child because my parents were very fond of the area.  Even in my earliest memories of the mountain I have been awed by it.  To finally stand on Hood's summit and ski down fulfills a longtime desire.  Although it is not the tallest of the volcanoes I believe Mount Hood is the most aesthetic, has the best skiing routes, and it was certainly the best ski on this trip to the PNW.  With the successful summit ski descent on Mount Hood I conclude my volcano skiing for the season.


Note:  Final videos will be created AFTER I finish this trip.  Enjoy the previews but there is better stuff coming.



Tuesday, June 14, 2011 - After a day of rest from my adventure on Mount Adams I got in contact with Ben Krause.  The weather looked somewhat questionable so we decided to head up to Mount Hood and scope the area.  On the drive up it was really cloudy, but as soon as we got to the Timberline parking lot we were above all clouds and it was completely clear.  Kicking ourselves for not doing the summit that day we decided to go for a very short tour.

Wednesday, June 15, 2011 - We arrived at the Timberline parking lot at 6:30 AM to find that it was snowing...hard.  Ben and I hung out in the climbers registration room until 9:30 hoping for a weather break.

When we got to the top of the Palmer snowfield (8,540') and it was still windy, low visibility and snowing.  Ben and I were discouraged to say the least.  We were just getting ready to ski back down to the parking lot when Eric Severson, a friendly visitor from Minnesota, strolled over and asked, "How high can you hike above the lift here?"  I responded that you can hike to the top of the mountain, but I didn't recommend it because the visibility was so poor.  Then he informed us that it was quite clear and sunny not even 200 yards to the east from where we were.

I honestly didn't believe him, but Ben and I figured it wouldn't hurt to check it out just in case.  As it turns out, Eric saved Ben and I from having to come back some other day because we had clear visibility to the summit.  I've seen weather change quickly, but never have I seen such a distinct line of demarcation in the clouds.  Within 20 yards we went from a low-visibility snowstorm to clear skies!

And to think, we were just about to turn around.

Photo by Ben Krause

The approach truly begins!

Photo by Ben Krause

On the way up it was really quite cold and the wind was howling.  The snow surface was entirely rime ice which made skinning quite difficult.  I had been wearing my shell over a short-sleeved base layer but decided to switch to a down puffy coat after about 1000' vertical.  Once I had it on I was quite comfortable and I continued to climb in it for the rest of the ascent.  I also used the opportunity to switch from skinning to boot-packing up the rock hard rime ice.  

Changing layers under Crater Rock.  You can see old ski tracks on the standard southern descent route.  My descent route is just out of the left of the frame.

Photo by Ben Krause

Ben switched from skinning to boot-packing earlier than I did and it was probably a good decision.



A good spot to scope my line.



Perspective on the rime.



Ben making his way up.

The wind whipping over the Steel Cliffs.

Photo by Ben Krause

Getting near the Hogsback.

Photo by Ben Krause

On the Hogsback with the Steel Cliffs in the background.

As we gained the Hogsback part of Hood's crater, Ben realized that he would not have enough time to finish the climb and make it back to Portland for a job interview that he had.  This left me with a slight dilemma; should I turn around or continue to the summit solo?  Above the Hogsback is where one must cross the most glaciated and crevassed terrain.  Looking at my intended approach route (The Old Crater Route) it was obvious that all the crevasses I would have to cross were thoroughly bridged.  Additionally, the firm snowpack on the approach and the freezing temperatures made me quite confident in the strength of those bridges.  I decided to go it alone, but with Ben watching as I made progress through most of the remaining ascent.

Panorama of the summit crater from the start of the Hogsback.

Photo by Ben Krause

Crossing the actual crater of Mount Hood.

Photo by Ben Krause

Getting to cross the actual crater was quite unique and fun.  Hood is a spectacular mountain!

Photo by Ben Krause

Making progress up the Old Crater Route.

Photo by Ben Krause

I got a good view of the top of my descent from the summit ridge (upper right of the picture) during this part of the climb.

Photo by Ben Krause

I moved as quickly as I could from the Hogsback to the summit ridge to minimize my time in a zone of potential icefall.  Hence I did not take any pictures or video in this section.


A look down the Old Crater Route from the summit ridge.



The winds on the summit ridge and summit were intense.  There were moments where I had to lie down and anchor myself as best as I could with my crampons and ice axe, because even on my hands and knees I was getting blown over.  When I arrived at the summit, I put my pack down with my skis still attached.  A gust of wind almost blew it away (which would have been miserable!), so I anchored my gear to my ice axe while I waited for a break in the wind.


Despite the wind, the summit was still stunning and it was fantastic to be above the clouds!


Alone on the summit!  I descended along the ridge in the background to get on top of my line.



The snow on the descent was far from being ideal.  The rime that plagued the ascent would prove to be a hassle on the descent as well.  It prevented me from taking any pictures until I was below the Crater Rock because I didn't want to stop and hassle with my camera on a steep slope in those sorts of conditions (i.e. wind, variable visibility and rime snow).


Another view from the summit, but notice the rime in the foreground.  It was like that for most of the descent.



Although the snow was poor, the descent was still quite fun.  From the summit ridge I descended the West Crater Rim.  The top half was not quite as steep as the bottom half, but both sections were certainly steep with sections upwards of 50 degrees.  Since the snow was so poor, I was forced to go either very slowly or very quickly.  After the first two slow turns from the summit ridge I decided that it would be easier to just let the skis run quickly over the ice.  It was a good idea and the descent became MUCH more enjoyable.


From the top half of the line I traversed skier's right to the Hawkins Cliffs.  What followed was by far the most exciting part of the descent.  Clouds were rolling in and out, so I had to wait for my opportunity to descend.  As soon as there was a clearing I dropped in and skied quickly along the edge of the Hawkins Cliffs.  The rime was smaller here and it began to move with me in a loud, hissing slough.  Nearing the bottom of the line I pointed my skis in order to gain elevation on the other side of the valley and escape any slough that might be following me.  After the straightline I was below Crater Rock and on much flatter, less hazardous terrain.  I felt comfortable taking my camera out for some pictures.


Hawkins Cliffs on the bottom of the West Crater Rim.  My line came down skier's left (looker's right) of the cliffs.



Another look.  You can see my traverse tracks in the upper right of this picture.



Below Crater Rock I completely lost all visibility.  I made my way down to Zigzag Canyon and then traversed skier's left to the Timberline lifts.  I made it back to the car safe and sound after 45 minutes of skiing by braille.  


Yee haw!  Mount Hood was one fantastic adventure!


Friday, June 17th, 2011 - It feels good to be finished with my volcano objectives for the season.  I had a gear explosion out of the rental car to let everything dry out and then reorganized.  I thought this pic was pretty impressive!



Beta:


Approach



Top of Descent



Entire Descent





Top half of West Crater Rim from the summit ridge.



Bottom half of West Crater Rim by the Hawkins Cliffs.